Author: ALINA DIDUKH
Issue: #3, 2015, pp.85-88As most artists understand it, permanent make-up is not just about banal lips, eyebrows and lines applied to last a long time. Today, this kind of applied art can solve many aesthetic problems: embellish your face with a
blush, correct skin pigmentation, visually restore nipple areolae, camouflage scars and burns on the skin, and perform trichopigmentation and mesotherapy that employs multiple injections in places not accessible to conventional mesotherapeutic techniques.
Most clients are well aware of current trends. Artists will confirm that clients have become more competent and demanding. Every new technology becomes public through modern media. A self-respecting artist should not only be aware of current trends and technologies, but must also be able to surprise the client with very exclusive techniques in this field of business!
Today, I want to touch on the subject of camouflaging vertical wrinkles around the lips, otherwise known as peri-oral wrinkles.
We know what methods are offered by medical cosmetology. But, what if for some reason the client refuses such treatments? We can offer our own techniques to resolve the problem of peri-oral wrinkles…and even better – a combination of medical cosmetology and aesthetic techniques.
Peri-oral wrinkles clearly appear at 55 years. Their number and depth increase significantly as time goes by. Women tend to worry a lot when they see the first fine line as any wrinkle is a sign of age. We all want to look younger. Wrinkles around the mouth greatly distort the outline of the lips and make it more difficult to use a lip liner or lipstick as the substance quickly runs into these wrinkles, creating a very neglected appearance.
I often hear from clients who have peri-oral wrinkles that when speaking with another person or making a public appearance they are not able to maintain a conversation. Only one thought seems to be spinning through their head: “My lipstick has run again!” The interlocutor’s smile is perceived as “He’s making fun of my appearance!” Such thoughts do not increase the client’s self-esteem. A small external flaw becomes a major internal problem, causing a person to cut off all relations, and sometimes even puts an end to all social activities.
Problems related to “runny” lip contours are quite successfully solved by a permanent lip make-up procedure applying lip contour with shading techniques.
Camouflage of peri-oral wrinkles allows artists to greatly improve the client’s state of mind.
Now, let’s look at why these wrinkles are so visible. Any wrinkle is a fold, crease or ridge in the skin so it is not flat or smooth. The deepest part of the wrinkle, that is, the bottom part, lies in a dark recess. It is this natural darkening that makes the wrinkle so prominent. It is known that dark or shaded object always seems more distant than lighter or illuminated items. What can we usually use to make our face look younger? Lighten the deeper part of our wrinkles, of course!
It follows that visually the texture of the skin becomes smoother. This same technique can be used in permanent make-up.
Procedures to camouflage peri-oral wrinkles give excellent results when combined with permanent lip make-up. Because, if a client lightens her wrinkles, but continues to use lipstick or a lip liner, the colour will still run into the wrinkles, making them visible again. It is more convenient and efficient to perform both procedures in a single visit. However, nothing should prevent clients, who have already undergone permanent lip make-up, to camouflage peri-oral wrinkles sometime in the future. On the other hand, this technique will improve the client’s state of mind; it can be applied as a separate procedure.
So, let’s go directly to the procedure. To apply permanent make-up to the lips, select a colour together with the client. Here, I use Biolip 37 from the Biotek pigment palette. I use the same coloured skin pigment to lighten
the wrinkles. The shading should be a little lighter than the colour around the lips. It should also be noted that the skin colour around the upper and lower lips can be different. Then the camouflage pigments will also be different in the respective zones.
In our case, we chose the skin1 pigment in the Biotek palette of skin tones.
The lips are outlined with a lip liner whose color is similar to what is expected. When drawing the outline, I always advise artists to take liners whose color is similar to what they expect to see after the procedure. Sometimes, especially for novice artists, it is difficult to work when the outline has been made with a lighter or lower-contrast lip pencil (in relation to the actual skin color). But, it is sometimes even more difficult for the client to evaluate the shape of the eyebrows that were drawn in black pencil, or the shape of the lips shaded in bright red against a natural color. It is perfectly normal for clients not to know how to regard or choose a color. Artists have to master all aspects and nuances of the procedure.
The outline has been drawn; now comes the next stage – anesthetics. If peri-oral camouflage is performed separately, as the final stage of the procedure, it is possible to manage without using a topical anesthetic.
We can purchase certified products, such as Emla or Mezonumb. Their effect lasts long enough to enable artists to complete the entire procedure. I always warn artists about using uncertified Asian products.
After all, the metallized sachets (the most common form of Asian anesthetics) do not list the composition or the name of the product, at best, a few figurative images showing how to save the client in the event of
complications?! How do we know what and how much is in these bags? Why subject yourself and your clients to such unnecessary risks?
If permanent lip make-up is applied together with peri-oral camouflage, I suggest using an injectable anaesthetic. Since not all permanent make-up artists are licensed dentists, I advise them to find the nearest dental clinic.
I think that the dentist will probably be willing to cooperate. Moreover, there is always the likelihood that the client will return to the clinic, where she got the anesthetic. Now we go directly to the procedure. First, outline and fix the contour of the lips, then work on the wrinkles, and complete the procedure by brushing the colour onto the lips.
In this case, the contour was outlined with a 5 Liner five-point laser head. The lips were shaded with a 6 Slope flat tapered pencil. Do not use multiple needles to lighten the wrinkles. You should use a single-point needle as only the bottom part of the wrinkles needs to be painted. In this case, we used a 1PColor needle.
This needle performs much better as the tip has special notches allowing the pigment to penetrate faster into the skin. The work should be done very delicately.
Hand movements should be carefully controlled and accurate. If you relax the brush during the shading process, your hand movements become more sweeping; the pigment coating technique becomes similar to shading the hairs on the eyebrows, with the only difference being that the wrinkle itself dictates the needle’s direction. We must understand that such a delicate operation can be performed on high-quality machines that have finely tuned needle motion without any side jumps and a stable output. The quality of grinding and sharpening needles is also very important.
Needles with a laser polishing function have a minimal traumatic effect. Special laser perforation allows artists to administer the exact constant amount of pigment under the skin. Such fine and delicate work can only be performed with such needles. If a low-quality machine is used, we risk seeing kinds of white vertical stripes. Such a face will look much worse than the perioral wrinkles!
The field of permanent make-up is constantly expanding. This is perfectly illustrated by what options we can offer to improve the appearance of older faces.
Fresh and warm shades are lost with age. However, you can bring them back by applying our procedures. Fresh color on the lips, and the disappearance of wrinkles around them will make your face look younger and make you feel happier.